A love letter, a culture shock, and a near-death by moped experience – James’ Vietnam adventure

If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to step into a country where the food is flawless, the history profound, and the mopeds appear to outnumber the human population, let us introduce you to Vietnam. This is a story of temples, caves, rainstorms, culture shock, and an ongoing disbelief that traffic so chaotic can still function like a perfectly rehearsed dance.

Arriving in Hanoi meant stepping straight into a warm wall of humidity, honking horns, and the kind of street-food aromas that immediately make you doubt every “Vietnamese” dish you’ve eaten at home.

A Crowd-Free Morning Highlights Tour (where “crowd-free” translates to “slightly less chance of being trampled”) offered a deep dive into the city’s history. The Temple of Literature, Hoa Lo Prison, and Ngoc Son Temple each revealed a different layer of Hanoi’s cultural soul.

Stepping back into the streets brought the first true culture shock: mopeds – rivers of them. Crossing the road in Hanoi is not so much a pedestrian activity as it is an act of faith. Move slowly, don’t make eye contact, and trust the swarm to flow around you. It’s practically an Olympic sport, and if it ever becomes one, Vietnam will sweep the medals.

That evening’s street-food tour was a highlight. Bowl after bowl of  utterly delicious dishes proved one thing: in Vietnam you either commit, or you go hungry.

On 19 October, the journey continued to Halong Bay, with a stop at The Green Life Centre, a recycling initiative selling surprisingly stylish items made from repurposed waste.

Halong Bay itself is simply breathtaking. After boarding the cruise, we climbed all 400 steps of Ti Top Island – along with what felt like everyone else in the country – before kayaking into the serene Luon Cave. The next morning brought a wander through the spectacular Sung Sot (Surprise!) Cave, followed by lunch back in Hanoi and a night train southward. The gentle rocking of the carriage made for excellent sleep… the snoring passengers less so.

Hue greeted us with the vast, atmospheric Imperial Citadel – a sprawling network of gates, temples, palaces, and gardens once home to Vietnam’s Nguyen Dynasty. It’s regal, historic, and unforgettable. A well-earned massage afterwards felt appropriately royal.

The next day, karma arrived in the form of biblical rain during a 125cc motorbike tour. Imagine being pressure-washed by nature while riding through countryside and you’re close. But the scenery made up for the soaking: the peaceful Tomb of Emperor Tu Duc, rural pagodas, markets, and the graceful 18th-century Thanh Toan Bridge. A vegetarian lunch at a pagoda offered serenity – and a chance to dry out – before continuing the soggy adventure.

Hoi An welcomed us with its iconic Old Town partially flooded. Locals treated the rising water with the nonchalance of seasoned Venetians, continuing business as usual while tourists hopped into boats for a novelty ride.

We explored the Old Town and the ornate Cantonese Assembly Hall, before spending the next day cycling through rice paddies and wandering a windswept beach. Hoi An’s charm remains intact – even when half underwater.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) proved that if Hanoi feels like a moped cloud, Saigon is the entire moped atmosphere. Traffic operates with its own mysterious hive mind, defying physics yet somehow working flawlessly.

A city tour introduced the Reunification Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral, and the Opera House, before an emotional visit to the War Remnants Museum – a powerful, unmissable experience.

The next day’s Mekong Delta excursion included coconut products, tuk-tuk rides, a home-cooked lunch with local villagers, and even snake wine. Spoiler: it tastes exactly as you fear.

On 27 October we explored the Cu Chi Tunnels, a remarkable network once used during wartime. Crawling through these narrow passages is humbling, fascinating, and perfect for anyone looking to test their squat endurance.

Personal highlights included sipping beer on Train Street as an express train roared past within inches, and the delightful Note Café, decorated with thousands of handwritten post-its from around the world.

And the coffee – oh, the coffee. Traditional Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk is a revelation, salt coffee is an acquired taste, and a well-made egg coffee is liquid dessert.

Leaving Vietnam at the end of October felt bittersweet. This country is vibrant, surprising, delicious, and occasionally terrifying (usually thanks to mopeds). It overwhelms the senses in all the best ways, and one thing is certain: you’ll never forget it.

Ready for your own Vietnam adventure?